Thursday 12 April 2012

My 20 Awesome Experience Backpacking Sabah (1 to 10)

Truth to be told. My Journey to realization series had been dragging for long. If it continues at this rate, it would take me years to finish them! No thanks to my long winding writing, and with my laziness at terminal stage. I might as well save them up, if I were to publish a book about it. *laughs* Inspired by a post my friend wrote. Here is it people, My 20 awesome experience backpacking Sabah. In no specific order.

1. Volunteering at Tampat Do Aman Eco Resort.



For the free accommodation, for the nice food, for the amazing people, and for the breathtaking view. Volunteering was a good way to get the most out of a beautiful place, without burning a hole in your pocket. Tampat Do Aman Eco Resort (TDA) located in the most northern Tip of Borneo and managed by the infamous British expat, Howard Stanton. Surrounded by picture perfect beaches, the friendliest Rungus people, exciting wildlife and serene village life. But all these beautiful things came with hard work, real hard work. Me and Toby pouring sweat six day a week, working on upgrading and constructing TDA. We got our hands in carrying everything from food compost to trunks of coconut tree, landscaping, transporting, tank cleaning, to design and make furniture, waiting, painting and constructing. One can never imagine the hard work we did, unless you go try it yourself. The best part was perhaps seeing all our effort come to realize in making TDA a better place for all its guest, while not forgetting the cold shower after and that cold nice beer later!

All thanks to the staffs at the restaurant that never failed to feed us food, the staff of TDA who never fail to show us that they can do it better, and Howard for his charismatic figure that could make us work better, if not faster. For better knowing the wonderful people of TDA, click here. Volunteering at TDA was perhaps the best decision I made, I would be damned if I do not recommend this to you. Plus it would really help you to lose some weight with all those heart pumping, muscle aching work.

Check out Tampat Do Aman on their face book page. http://www.facebook.com/tampatdoamanKudat

2. Bike trail at Tip of Borneo.


This was one, if not the toughest, the most fantastic bike trail I rode before. It was a series of uphills and downhills with harsh road conditions, a sore to all my body muscles. But a thrill for those who enjoy adventure biking. I rode through serene villages, beautiful beaches and breathtaking views. A ride that would truly revive the kid in you! More excitement about the bike trail and those breathtaking photos, you can click here to see.


3. Translating for a German volunteered doctor.


It was a great day for the villagers where they got free of charge diagnostic, treatment and medication, courtesy of a German volunteered doctor named doctor Ulli and Howard. I was given the big responsibility as a translator between the villagers and the good doctor. It was a daunting task at first, imagining you translated wrongly and the wrong medication and treatment was given! Or worst, advice to the villager was lost in translation! But as the day went on, it became more and more effortless and it actually became enjoyable. Seeing the joy translated on the villagers face, big and small, after getting their much needed treatment, was life greatest reward for my effort. It was the first time I felt I was part of the village as they treated me like, one of their own. We talked, we cheer, we laugh, while the village kids circling gleefully around us. The creme of the crop for that day was when Dr. Ulli complimented me that I could strictly advice the villagers of their treatment, without being instructed. A great day indeed!


4. Everyday life at Kampung Marang Parang.



Waking up at around seven in the morning, accompany by a series of forestry noise of the jungle. Brush teeth, do my business at the loo, laundry of previous day sweat-filth cloths and a cold shower, was the usual morning routine. With a piece of banana, and a thick scented coffee, me and Toby try to chase away our sleepiness, talked about what job we will be given that day. Our early morning joke turn serious when Howard step into the vicinity of the resort. After he explained specifically what we need to do for the day (from cleaning the resort, to collecting tarmac from the road, to cleaning huge water tank), we travel down the road (Via the range rover of by bicycle) to Howard's restaurant for our much needed breakfast. After consuming much proteins and carbs, it was then time to give them a good use. By afternoon, our sweat had dampen almost the whole of our T-shirt, while our stomach had start to growl like we had a monster inside us. That monster was satisfied by either a big plate of nicely fried rice or noodles. Those high carb food never failed to incite the sleepiness within us, leaving us feeling lazy all evening. Our work rate then move from hero to zero in an instant, the constant self-installed break time do nothing to help at all. However, despite these setbacks, plus Howard coming now and then to check on us, we always be able, perhaps not as perfect as we want it to be, finish our task. Then heaven struck at five in the evening, a time we were left free to do what we want to do. For me, sunsets viewing was the best activity for me, me be able to just realx and think or just slowly savour the beauty of the wonderful nature. We sometimes went swimming, play Takraw, beach football, helping at the restaurant, chat with travelers or just chill at Tip of Borneo. There was never a dull moment. After yet again another fulfilling dinner, we would be cracking beer can tabs, off chilling for a game of pool, enjoy an ice cream worth for the days work, listening to how Howard work his magic on every visitor or just joking around with the staffs. The day ended, when the sore, after those hard work, turned to a desire to tug straight into our blanket. After a ritual of cleaning myself, I then approached my bed, my sanctuary. Sleep had never taste so sweet, and the smile on my face, never seem so bright.


5. Staying in a Rungus long house.



This elongated establishment of coconut plank floor, bamboo-ed wall and atap roofing, had been my humble home for almost a month. My room was situated just beside a lushly grown patch of banana plantation. It was not scary, if you have not heard the ghost story which revolve around a banana flower. Unfortunately, I did. The first night was a sleep beguile by countless fear from my own imagination, soon turn to something even more scarier - small animals. There was even sightings of wild boar within the resorts, dogs, cats, rarely snakes, and everybody common enemy- rats. It was an absolute no-no to leave your food on the ground, or on anywhere the rats can reach. They can, and they will, take them. It will not be your choice of stay, if you wanted absolute privacy. The walls, does not work like a wall. You can hear the creeks and whispers across the corridor, or when one room switch on the light, almost every room will be lighten up. In the village, to have a fan was considered a luxury, which was installed in every guest room. I will switch them off in the middle of the night, as the night breeze that flow through the whole long house, was cold enough for me to request for another blanket. Good natural ventilation indeed. It was stupid of me that after half a month of staying in my room, only I realized that there was a curtain for that big open window beside my bed, which could prevent me from staring at the banana patch, and hold down the cold night wind. With that my night sleep, with the ever trusted mosquito net, became very comfortable. I am amazed of how simple things within the long house, could be so calming and exciting at the same time. For an adventure nearest to nature, why not opt for a long house stay, rather than the boring air-conditioned room? Perhaps the best part of the long house was, that it could amazingly, bring everybody within it, closer.


6. Snorkeling and Body Surfing at Tip of Borneo.



 Tip of Borneo offered fantastic sites to snorkel and experience the marine wildlife Sabah so famed of. Shrouded by the mystery legend of a white crocodile in the waters of Tip of Borneo, who said had been hunting humans, makes every snorkeling trip, a mix of excitement and adventurous. Toby and another good local brought me to Pantai Kulambu for my first snorkeling trip. The water was cold at first then turn mildly temperate once you get further away from the seaside. The swim was effortless with current taking us adrift. The small marine life was abundantly hiding among the lush seaweed growth. It was my local friend birthday that day, and he caught himself a sea horse to bring home. Was regretful to not had join for one of the many night snorkeling trip, where they hunt for fish with homemade spear gun. That would be really fun! The beach in front of Howard's restaurant was considered one of Sabah's finest surf beach, where in a good day, waves can hit up to 1-2 meter high. There was the first time I tried body surfing. Yes! you could surf without a surf board! At first it was hard. But seeing Toby did it effortlessly, make me believe that I could do it too. After a few failed attempt, and some choking on sea water, I manage to do it. And man it was fun! You gotta wait for the right wave, and with precise timing, jump flat towards the shore, and just relax. You will felt a force from behind pushing you towards the shore, you just gotta sit back and enjoy the ride. Amazing!


7. Beach fire under the Milky Way.



Toby and Howard had been certified professional fire starter with their ability to get it up in minutes. It was almost a weekly activity for all of us. The cool breeze and the warmth of the fire, made a comfortable sit on washed up driftwood even sweeter. With the chilled box, we could slowly enjoy our beer without them going warm. There was only us in the whole long stretch of that beautiful Kalampuan beach. The beautiful clear night sky, promised us an almost 360 degree view. Coupled with the visible magnificent Milky Way, further signifies how tiny we are in this wide, very wide world. With that, we happily drink on in relax, talked about our hope and dreams, and merrily chatting the daily blues away. One of the most soothing experience.


8. The Sunset at Simpang Mengayau.



The west coast of Sabah are truly famed for their breathtaking sunsets. And Tip of Borneo was the place to be for that. It was always my dream since I missed the one when I am there two years back. Thankfully it came true one beautiful day, after a long two week of bad weather and poor visibility. That day, I took my usual 15 minutes slow relaxed bike ride to Simpang Mengayau (The rocky formations that was the real Tip of Borneo). Parked my bike on the hill, make my way down the rocky steeps, and plant myself on my favourite rock surface. In front of me, a natural wide view one sight could not cover. There was no other place I rather be to see this sunset. The sun was slowly heading into the sea, while I sit laid back, feasting my eyes on a blue orange red galore of spectrum. It happened so fast, you hope the moment could last a little bit longer. With the last beam, the sun had fully disappear below the horizon. With that, cued for another spectacle of lights and blooming colour,  played even more beautifully with the reflections of the ocean and the clouds. Unbelievably beautiful! At last my dream came true. The merry addition? Seeing the moon shyly rises from the east when I turned my back from the sunset. More reason for that huge smile I had, riding back to the restaurant. There was too other sunset hunting I did at other spots around Tip of Borneo. Each was different, and had the beauty of their own. But none would beat this, the best sunset of my life.


9. Our pet Slow Loris 'Fury'.



I just came out from the showers at one morning, when Toby and Rony call me over. And to my surprise and slightly shocked, they show me a rat trap with a furious furry animal inside it. They asked me what it was and I unsured, yelled out, 'Slow loris!' While Rony still trying to tease the living hell out of that poor creature, Howard came by and confirmed that it was, in fact, a slow loris. Then came the crazy idea of making it a pet. At least for the day. We had him put inside a well furnished enclose previously used to house Toby's pet lizard and named him Fury, for the furious attitude he displayed while trap inside the cage. We can see him cutely hugging the makeshift branch inside the enclose, trying to catch some sleep. We played with him and tried to feed it with fruits, but to no avail as all he wanted to do was to sleep. Slow and lazy indeed! Some lucky guest manage to snap some photo of this rare creature, especially when it was in daylight. Slow loris was an animal active at night and sleep high up at tree branches throughout the day. As the night fall, we tried to release Fury by opening the enclose and hope that it would crawl out itself, and he did. He very slowly crawled across the roof beams of the common room, make a U-turn as it reach a dead end. He gave us a good laugh for his display of slowness and indecisiveness. Fury eventually disappear to the rooftop. And that, was the last time we saw Fury. Goodbye dear Fury. May you live well and prosper.


10. Kinabalu Park trail blazing.



Aside from the famous Timpohon trail and Mesilau trail, both use for the summit climb of Mount Kinabalu, there was more marked, and even more unmarked trails within Kinabalu Park. I had always dream to blaze through each of those trails, at least those ten marked ones. The ten trail consisted of Mountain and waterfall view Trail (approx 200m), Bukit Tupai trail (343m), Bundu Tuhan view trail (465m), Pandanus Trail (598m), Bukit Ular Trail (997m), Bukit Burung Trail (1082m), Mempening Trail (2516m), Kiau View Trail (2544m), Silau-Silau Trail (3057m) and Liwagu Trail (5620m). Armed with a map, two bottles of water, a sweater, kampung adidas shoe, and a sense of adventure, I set off to conquer them all, alone. I started of with Pendanus trail. A good start as the uphill adequately warm my legs up for the downhill dash of Kiau View trail. In my opinion, the least enjoyable trail was the Mempening. As in Malay, pening meant dizzy. And that was exactly how Mempening trail feels like, a grueling snake-like uphill without any good spot for a good view. On the other hand, The Bukit Ular trail was packed with magnificent views at every turn, as this was one trail that faced the huge waterfall everyone would notice when you drove form KK to Kundasang. Contradicts to its name, which meant Snakes Hill, had no snakes at all. Another trail that provided good  view was the short but very steep Mountain and Waterfall view trail. You could catch a glimpse of the summit of Mount Kinabalu from here in a clear day. And if you are lucky, you get to see some Napenthes or otherwise known as the pitcher plant that many species can only be found at Kinabalu park. Thankfully, I get to see a bunch of very cute little ones while I was up there. The best two trails must be the Silau-Silau trail and the Liwagu trail. One offered relaxing and rejuvenating horizontal walk along the soothing Silau-Silau river, a paradise for bird watcher and insects lover. While the other offered a treacherous but very adventurous hike along the magnificent Liwagu river, where you could spot some good jungle and river views. But be wary of the small width of the trail and be sure to start Liwagu trail from Timpohon gate, as you would go all the way downhill rather than the harder and slower uphill, if you choose to start from the park entrance. Take a bus to Timpohon gate that would cost you from RM4-RM 16.50, depend on your negotiating skills. After three days of constant trail blazing, and a whole lot of sore legs muscle, I finally did what I came here for. I set my foot on each and every trail in Kinabalu Park. One achievement that I will always be proud of! I would recommend you try them out before your summit climb. As you will not feel your legs the morning after the summit climb. Enjoy it like I do!

Continue to number 11 to 20, click here. For more adventure at Kinabalu Park, Sandakan, Lahad Datu and the gateway to Malaysia most exotic islands, Semporna.

Live well people,
Shian

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